PLANTING RECOMMENDATIONS

Amaryllis bulbs can be purchased at your local nursery, or sold in kits complete with soil and pot. The only time I can recommend buying a kit is if they are on super clearance sale, and you can pick them up for $5 or less. I say this because the included soil is poor and the pot is usually a cheap plastic throwaway that will tip over with the slightest provocation. Use quality materials and you will not be disappointed.

The Basics, or "What's In a Pot?"

Let's start with the pot. You should use a sturdy clay pot that leaves 1 or 2 inches space between the pot and the bulb. Let's use a concrete example for illustrative purposes. Say you have a bulb that is 3 1/2 inches in diameter. Your pot should then be 5 1/2 inches, or to use a standard size, 6 inches. Do not use a pot that is sharply tapered or very shallow because you want room for decent root growth. **UPDATE** This year, as an experiment, I am trying potting in much larger pots. As an example, if you get a really nice bulb the size of a large orange, try potting it in a 10"-12" pot. It has come to my attention that keeping the amaryllis pot-bound will keep it from producing off-shoots, but if you want a showy display in a few years, then pot the bulb in a large pot and eventually it will grow many "baby bulbs" which will fill the pot up! We will keep you posted on how this experiment turns out. **UPDATE2** Well, after growing in bigger pots, the bulbs have grown significantly in size. We'll see if that means more blooms in a few months, so stay tuned.

Soil Mix

Amaryllis like well drained soil. A very common mistake that plagues newcomers is potting the bulb in heavy soil that remains sodden and eventually rots the bulb or grows healthy mold on top. If you are trying to culture penicillin, this is good, but if you are growing bulbs, it is bad, trust me. Anyway, my magic formula goes something like this: one part regular potting mix, one part peat humus, one part perlite or vermiculite, and if you want extra drainage, one part sand. I also started mixing some Osmocote slow release fertilizer into the soil mix. There are several varieties of Osmocote, but I only use the 14-14-14 variety. Do not use the one with the low phosphorus number (the number in the middle). Remember, you can experiment with the proportions in the mix to suit your individual needs. For example, if your pots are going to remain indoors, and you live up North, you want lots of drainage because the soil will remain wet for a long time in the winter, especially if you are trying to conserve energy (temps. in the upper 60's). If you live in a hot, dry climate, and your plants will be sitting in the blazing sun (not recommended), then you can ease up on the vermiculite or sand, or alternatively, you can increase the soil components. Let's get on to the planting process.

Plant That Bulb!

Get your bulb and inspect it. If there are lots of scraggly dead roots, trim them back. Also, gently remove any loose dead foliage from the bulb (dried up outer layers, for example). Put the roots of the bulb in tepid water for a few hours to hydrate them. Please be careful not to get the bulb wet! You do not have to soak the roots if you are in a hurry, but it really helps. Place something over the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot to keep the soil from escaping. I use small pieces of screen from old windows, they work great, and you can find them anywhere. Put 1/2 to 1 inch of gravel at the bottom of the pot for drainage, and fill with soil to the half way mark, more or less so that the end result is the bulb's neck is above the rim of the pot, there is at least an inch from the top of the soil to the rim of the pot. Fan the roots out evenly, and press soil down so there are no air pockets around the roots. Cover the roots with soil and fill until the bulb is half to two thirds covered with soil. Water very well with tepid water that has been standing out a day or so to allow the chlorine to dissipate. At this point, I usually squish the bulb around a little to make sure that the soil under the bulb is not dry, and to work out any trapped air. Toss the extra water that may be in the saucer. Place the newly potted bulb in a warm sunny location, and DO NOT WATER again until the soil is relatively dry, or until foliage appears. Once the bulb has sprouted, you can water more often, but remember that more plants have been killed by too much watering than too little (unless you live in the desert). Your bulb should bloom in 6 to 8 weeks from the time of planting. Remember to rotate the plant because the stalks will bend toward the light, so turning the pots will keep them straight. You may have to stake the stalk to keep the plant from tipping over. It is normal to see leaves only after the plant has finished blooming, so do not worry if you don't see leaves with the buds. To prolong the life of the flowers, you can place the bulb in a darker, cooler location. Also, to preserve the energy of the bulb, you should clip the flowers as soon as they start to wither unless you are growing seeds. Seedlings will take 2 to 3 years to flower, so you may not have the patience for that.

MAINTENANCE - REBLOOM

After the bulb has bloomed, and leaves are growing, you can fertilize with water soluble plant fertilizer. I use Shultz' 20-20-20 half strength every time I water. The Osmocote in the soil will nourish the bulb in the beginning, so don't worry. When the danger of frost has passed, put the pot outside in a sunny, partially shaded location. Some people bury the pots, but I put them in a mini greenhouse to protect them from strong winds and from deadly pests. Keep watering and feeding your bulbs until August, and start withholding watering until September. In September, bring the pots in and store them for two months in a cool dark location. Cut the foliage only after it has wilted and died back. In November, replace the top inch or so with new soil, and bring back into the light and warmth and water again to start the cycle for another year! Sometimes bulbs will not bloom again the year following the initial planting. There are many possible reasons. Some of these reasons include too little sun, uneven watering habits (too much or too little water), too little or too much fertilizer, etc. It is important to note that too much fertilizer can be lethal to your bulb, so if in doubt, use less. You cannot kill a bulb with too little fertilizer.

FINAL THOUGHTS

I have been growing Amaryllis bulbs for decades, and put up this page to share some of the information and insights I have gained throughout the years. I hope that this information is useful to you. If you don't get the results you expect the first time out, it is good to keep in mind that successful cultivation of any plant worth keeping takes experience, preparation, and diligence. Amaryllis plants are relatively easy to cultivate, so keep at it, and you will succeed. If you want to share some info/comments/photos, then feel free to send me an EMAIL.